LOW - AND NO- ALCOHOL “WINE”
By Melania Lizano, MD-DipWset
Introduction
Consump)on of low and no alcohol wines (low/no) has increased in recent years: in 2023, the 10 leading markets (70% of the global volume) increased by 5% and reflected in a market value over USD 13 billon, and according to the IWSR (Drinks Market Analysis), an annual growth of 7% is expected (Richards, 2020) (IWSR, 2022); younger genera)ons, especially millennials are leading the way.
Consumer´s interest has also been increasing: an overall influx of new consumers of 33% in 2023 was es)mated (Vinetur, 2023).
Wine industry is shiTing focus towards low/no: for example, in 2023, Australian government awarded a grant of A$3 million to improve quality and innova)on of low/no alcohol wines (Green, 2023).
In his January 2024 ar)cle in the magazine “The Drinks Business”, Patrick Schmi` MW, makes an extensive summary of all the low/no wines that were awarded at the Wine Masters Compe))on in London 2023 (Schni`, 2024) (See Appendix 1).
Graphic 1: No/low volumes by country 2022
Low/no are the result of reducing or removing alcohol during or aTer the alcoholic fermenta)on from a finished wine, usually by a physical or chemical process.
Low alcohol wine (LAW) or reduced alcohol wine is a wine that has a lower than normal alcohol strenght compared to regular wine. Alcohol in regular wines ranges from 8,5 to 14,5 % ABV (alcohol by volume) according to the OIV (Interna)onal Organiza)on of Vine and Wine). In LAW, alcohol has been reduced on purpose to less tan 8,5%.
Dealcoholized (DAW) wine is a “wine” in which alcohol has been removed almost completely, resul)ng in a drink that tastes like wine but has none of the effects of alcohol. They may be subdivided into par$ally dealcoholized wines, with alcohol content ranging from 0,5 to 8,5% (these can opt for a PDO or PGI), and dealcoholized wines with less than 0,5% of alcohol. Data may vary depending on the country or geographical region legisla)on; for example, in Norway it´s 0,1%, in the Netherlands it´s 0,7%, in the EU (European Union) it´s 1,2% and 0,05% in the USA (Harding, 2024).
The terms may be confusing: The OIV defini)on of wine states that in order to call it wine, it must have 8,5% ABV or more (OIV, 2021). But since 2023, the UE allows the term “wine”. According to the OIV, the term dealcoholized wine means that is has had a reduc)on of more than 20% of its alcohol content (Harding, 2024).
So, are LAW or DAW the future of the wine industry, or are they just another alterna)ve to low/no alcohol drinks?
ExploraBon of the reasons for the growth of this category
Winemakers have been choosing to lower alcohol in their wines: climate change has had an undeniable influence in the rise of alcohol level, which impacts wine’s structure and aromas. But changes in consumers preferences and in du/es and regula/ons, have also had a huge influence (Robinson, 2005).
Abstainer
17%
Substituer
43%
Blender (chooses any drink)
20%
Trialler (occasional drinker)
20%
Graphic 2. Consumers data 2023. Credit IWRS
Why are consumers preferences changing?
In recent years, there is a more conscious approach for not drinking alcohol concerning health, wellness, and healthy lifestyle: it is now seen as a choice and this freedom to choose is leaded by younger genera)ons. Not drinking alcohol or consuming no/low drinks used to be seen as a
“sacrifice” or obliga)on, especially in people who were driving or had any health or medical condi)on.
Health concerns where increased following the announcement of the WHO (World Health Organiza)on) in 2023 that there is “no safe level of alcohol” (WHO, 2024). Many studies have demonstrated over the years the effects of alcohol in the body; ethanol has been placed by the Interna)onal Agency For Research on Cancer, in a high risk group for developing it. The risk for cancer is dose-related, but according to the WHO, “half of all alcohol a`ributable cancers in the WHO European Region are caused by “light” and “moderate” alcohol consump)on – less than 1.5 litres of wine per week” (WHO, 2024).
Alcohol consump)on also has been associated with liver disease, premature mortality and disability, alcohol dependency, as well as cardiovascular disease and diabetes (Schrieks, 2015) (Anderson, 2023) (Ronksley, 2011), and nowadays, awareness campaigns are rising.
Other health concerns may be related to medical treatments that don´t allow alcohol consump)on, special condi)ons like pregnancy or certain diseases that worsens with alcohol. NutriBonal reasons, related to calories in wine are also important: overweight and obesity have become a major health problem, and according to the WHO, in Europe and America, more people are obese than underweight (WHO, 2023). Wine has 70-110 calories/glass, and in addi)on, alcohol intake is associated with overea)ng (Cains, 2017).
Effects on mental capaciBes, mostly related to driving and opera)ng machinery are also a cause. Traffic accidents are one of the main causes of injuries and death in developed countries, and it is es)mated that 30-50% of mortal accidents are cause by alcohol consump)on. This cause highly preventable by informa)on campaigns (NHTSA, 2023).
Legaliza)on of cannabis in many countries may also have an impact because of the toxic effect when consuming both.
Spiritual or religious reasons may be considered: in certain religions, like the growing Muslim popula)on, alcohol consump)on is not accepted and seen as a sin. An historic example of this point would be the decrease in vines and wine produc)on seen during the Moor Occupa)on of the Iberian Peninsula in 711 C.E.
Economic factors are also important: supporters of low/no drinks are more price-conscious, younger genera)ons are not willing to pay a high price for alcoholic beverages. Many think that non-alcohol drinks, as they are usually exent from duty or taxes, should be low priced. But some wine makers argue that higher quality no/low alcohol wines are now being produced from equal quality base wines, so it´s price should be maintained (Richards, 2020).
Recent changes have occurred in taxes and price regulaBons especially aTer the WHO recommenda)on in January 2024 that alcohol cost must increase by 50%. For example, in the Netherlands, taxes for alcoholic beverages have risen by 8,4% as of January 2024 (Cole-Johnson, 2024). And since August 2023, the UK government increased the alcohol related duty on wine above 10,5% ABV depending on the level of alcohol (Robinson, 2023) (Masala, 2023). These changes in taxes may encourage winemakers to reduce alcohol in their wines.
Other reasons may include popular tendencies like “Dry January”, promoted as a health boost and money saver in many countries (Alcohol Change UK, 2023) (Thomas, 2024).
OpBons for reducing or removing alcohol in wines:
The aim is to reduce or eliminate alcohol from wine, while retaining all the other components. This is a challenging task as altera)on in wine structure is undeniable (Pearson, 2022). Removing alcohol lowers wine´s weight and body, increases total acidity, and carries loss of aroma compounds, giving bone dry, light less concentrated wines if adjustments are not made (Eren, 2023).
Some op)ons can be achieved in the vineyard (reducing alcohol naturally): wine regions with cool climate can produce wine with naturally low levels of alcohol, such as Vinho Verde in Portugal (Easton, 2017); so, plan)ng at higher eleva)ons could be an op)on. In these regions, climate determines the style and price of wine.
Early harvest may result in low concentra)on of sugar in grapes, thus less poten)al alcohol, but with the consequence of higher levels of acidity, and lack of phenolic ripeness, with obvious astringent tannins and herbaceous aromas: this affects the final style and makes it more difficult to produce a stable wine. Canopy management, higher yields and irrigaBon are other op)ons. But vineyard choices are considered mostly ineffec)ve as they reduce alcohol in no more than 3% (Harding, 2024).
Post-fermentaBon opBons for reducing alcohol in wines
Low alcohol wines:
There are several op)ons for producing LAW. Most of these involve low technology, which reduces capital and opera)onal costs, impac)ng final price.
The easiest and cheapest way of reducing alcohol in wines is by diluBon: adding water to wine to dilute alcohol. Many wine regions do not allow this prac)ce, especially in the EU. Some New World regions allow addi)on of water to must to prevent stuck fermenta)on. The obvious consequence is that water dilutes all the other components of wine, such as aromas and flavour concentra)on, acidity, tannins and colour, resul)ng in cheap, low quality final wine.
Another way of reducing alcohol is during the elabora)on of wine, known as parBal fermentaBon; this is the case of sparkling Moscato d´As) in which fermenta)on is stopped by lowering the temperature when desired levels of sugar, pressure and alcohol are reached. Final price and quality are more controlled and subject to the winemaker’s objec)ve. Blending low and high alcohol wines, as well as selec)ng certain type of yeasts that produce less alcohol, are also op)ons. But results are not stable, so price and quality may vary (Harding, 2007).
Post-fermentaBon opBons for removing alcohol in wines:
No alcohol wines:
Wines may be dealcoholized in several ways, but all of them include the remo)on of alcohol in a normally fermented wine, by separa)on of its components and then reassembling them with less alcohol. The obvious problem is the men)oned altera)on of wine structure. The process is basically a physical removal of alcohol and can involve disBllaBon-based (thermal) or membrane-based techniques that usually require high technology equipment. Taking alcohol out of wine, or other alcoholic beverage, leaves it less stable, and thus more prone to precipita)on and microorganism contamina)on. This is why hygienic and sterilizing methods must have even higher standards.
As the processes compromise organolep)c stability, wine profile can change faster aTer bo`led. The recommended )me between bo`ling and consump)on is less than for alcoholic wines, usually 5 years, but it is not advised to age them for more than 2 to 2,5 years (Eren, 2023).
Thermal methods:
Vacuum dis$lla$on:
ATer fermenta)on, wine is separated in different frac)ons in one large column. At low pressure and room temperature, the alcohol boiling point is reduced and by boiling, is eliminated from wine. The system uses heat pumps.
Non-vola)le compounds of wine are preserved, such as sugars and phenolics, but there is s)ll a loss of weight, body, and aromas in the wine. This method is popular in Germany. For impact on price, quality, and style, see below (VLTVD).
One alterna)ve is the evaporaBon under vacuum (stripping) using inert gas like nitrogen, carbon dioxide or argon. It was pioneered in France by the UCCOAR group in 1998 (Robinson, 2015).
Very low temperature vacuum dis$lla$on (VLTVD):
The system has three columns instead of one and includes the extrac)on and re-introduc)on of aromas, so they won’t be lost in the process (aroma recovery).
Some advantages are that it separates aromas and alcohol in a single pass as it has more than one column. It uses lower temperatures, requires low )me inside the columns, avoiding cooked aromas, and has a dis)lla)on rec)fier for the final alcohol level.
Impact on price:
The VLTVD process has a high capital cost, equipment being highly expensive; opera)ng costs on the other hand are low due to several factors that impact final price:
-Automated process: parameters are set at the beginning and the process is automa)c, it requires only one person to operate.
-Es)mated yield loss is low (15 to 18%), so few adjustments are necessary, needing less labour thus lowering the final price.
-The dealcoholiza)on goes under 0,02% ABV, so wines can be exported to different markets (see introduc)on for the different legisla)ons).
-It is cost-effec)ve: despite the ini)al cost, maintenance cost is low.
The system does not use water (like the Spinning Cone Column or the Reverse Osmosis, see below); it requires less energy than other methods, which also affects the final price and makes it more sustainable.
Impact on quality:
Several factors can improve the quality of the final wine:
-It is a single pass opera)on, reducing the risk of losing or altering organolep)c characteris)cs or destabilizing the wine.
-It is a closed system, so the risk of oxida)on is very low.
-Aroma recovery preserves 98% of the original aroma)c compounds of the base wine improving the quality of the final wine.
-Alcohol rec)fier also affects quality: levels are measured every hour in both wines, assuring the final result.
-Es)mated yield loss is low, producing a more balanced wine
Impact on style:
The style of the final wine depends on the style of the base wine, which is true for quality also. With this process, style can be similar as the changes in mouthfeel, aromas, structure, and complexity are lower than with other methods (Eren, 2023).
-Spinning Cone Column (SCC): it´s an alterna)ve method of vacuum dis)lla)on, used mainly in the new world. Developed in Australia by Flavourtech (Flavourtech, 2023) (Scalio)s, 2021), it is also used in other industries for different extrac)ons, like coffee, tea, juices, essen)al oils, and other alcoholic beverages as beer.
Within inverted sta)c and spinning cones inside ver)cal columns, steam extracts vola)le compounds: wine is poured from above, then steam from below separates the compounds from the liquids through repeated evapora)on and condensa)on. Rota)on of columns create a centrifugal force that helps in the process.
First it separates vola)le aroma compounds that are carried upwards by steam (at 25-35 ºC), and then captured in liquid form; a second pass removes ethanol from the compound-deprived liquid (at 45º C). Then the aroma compounds are blended back in the new low/no wine. (Eren, 2023) (Flavourtech, 2023) (Harding, 2024) (Easton, 2017).
Graphic
3. Spinning Cone Column: Credit: Flavourtech
Impact on price:
This high-tech equipment has a high capital cost and requires trained operators, so wineries usually don´t make the investment, but hire providers, which increases the final price. One excep)on is Giesen Winery in New Zealand (Giesen, 2024), that has inverted in their own SCC. Impact on style and quality:
There is li`le loss of aroma compounds, because of the low hea)ng and the short permanence of wine in the column (less than 30 seconds); but as it must pass twice, there is an es)mated 30% yield loss.
Membrane methods:
-Reverse osmosis (RO): the process uses osmo)c pressure to separate a low concentra)on solute from a high concentra)on one, by a semi-permeable membrane. Only very small par)cles pass, mainly water and ethanol. The part that passes (the permeate) then goes through either dis)lla)on or another pass through a different membrane (to remove alcohol); the water is then added back to the wine (the retentate).
RO has been used in many other winemaking processes, for example to balance organolep)c characteris)cs.
Graphic
4. Reverse Osmosis. Credit Wine Folly
Impact on style and quality: in RO, par)cles that pass are very small, the wine per se does not pass, neither should most of the aroma compounds, so wine is less altered; but some studies show that there is s)ll some pass of these compounds, modifying the final wine aromas (Pham, 2019).
Impact on price: the equipment for RO is less expensive and space-consuming than SCC, so it´s easier for the provider, and cheaper for the winemaker, influencing the final price of the wine. (WSET, 2023) (Easton, 2017) (Harding, 2024).
Other methods include:
-Nanofiltra$on: it´s a less effec)ve type of RO, so it alters wine more intensely.
- Evapora$ve perstrac$on: in this case, wine flows in one direc)on and stripping solu)on (water) in the other through a hydrophilic membrane, so alcohol passes from wine to water. Effects on price and quality are similar to SCC (Robinson, 2015) (Harding, 2024).
Graphic
5: EvaporaDve PerstracDon. Credit David Wollan
ATer the process of dealcoholiza)on per se, the wine must go through different adjustments of tartaric acid, residual sugar, sulfur dioxide (SO2) and flavour correc)on.
Other processes of stabiliza)on take place to avoid microorganisms. Both SO2 and Dimethyl Dicarbonate (DMDC, commercial name Velcorin), are addi)ves than can be used when the risk of pathogenic development is increased during elabora)on of wine, with li`le effect on result.
Conclusion and Personal Opinion
As Julia Harding, MW said in her January 2024 ar)cle (Harding, 2024), the low/no wines are “a work in progress”.
Although a controversial topic, increase in consump)on is a fact: there is a growing number of people who, for different reasons (see above), choose low/non-alcohol beverages; and although beer and spirits lead the markets, wine is not falling behind.
Younger popula)ons look for less alcohol, less sugar, less addi)ves, as well as different formats like cans and lower prices.
The obvious problem is that during the lowering/removal of alcohol, there is a loss of the organolep)c compounds of wine, and a decrease of mouthfeel and body related to the loss of alcohol; in addi)on, alcohol has a synergis)c role with certain aromas and flavours, and others (like herbaceous) tend to be magnified when alcohol is reduced.
Some winemakers even add sugar (in form of grape juice) or bubbles (Schni`, 2024), in an a`empt to compensate changes, as alcohol also brings sweetness and richness to wine; but the way I see it, is that as low/no wines can seem appealing to younger health-conscious people, it will not seem so for skilled drinkers, if these changes in wine structure occur during dealcoholiza)on.
Expert wine drinkers appreciate a well-balanced high alcohol wine, even with the known health concerns; others seek a good wine with less effect of alcohol, and yet others simply choose cero alcohol. For some “tradi)onalists” no/low wines are an abomina)on; for others, they are the future of the wine industry.
I think that the challenge for winemakers is to succeed in producing a very good quality low/no wine from a very good quality base wine, without the changes already men)oned. Further inves)ga)ons are necessary so the industry can develop a product that sa)sfies all consumers. Preference towards low/no will con)nue to rise if increased quality and availability also do so.
This requires greater knowledge in two aspects: be`er understanding the consumer´s preferences regarding low/no, and op)mizing the techniques used in reducing or removing alcohol.
But obtaining high quality/priced wines is achievable; for example, the Oceano Zero 2022 Pinot Noir from California sells at $55 per bo`le.
The high-tech processes must go hand by hand with vi)culture and winemaking changes to help achieve a product that is more sa)sfying.
Op)mizing the product is the future, but posi)oning these wines in the market, and drilling them in the minds of consumers must be another goal.
Marke)ng should be directed to young wellness-concerned people, to low/no beverage drinkers, to those who follow tendencies and to food and wine lovers.
And as consumers are mostly young, these drinks can be a hook to get them into wine: this would be one way of increasing wine consump)on overall.
If low/no alcohol wine represent the future of the industry remains to be seen. It all depends on whether a premium high-price wine could be replicated in a no/low version. But the legal framework, the consumers´ preferences, the technology, and even the terms used to define these wines, must be op)mized.
In conclusion, I agree with Mr. Miguel Torres, from Bodegas Torres as he said, when launching his 0,5% ABV white Natureo in 2007: “Dealcoholized wine does not compete with classic wine, but with water, juice and soT drinks which aren´t always ideal to match with food. Food and wine -with or without alcohol- bring people together and help them enjoy life a li`le more”. Because I think that it is impossible to replicate in an alterna)ve drink, all the years of hard work that lie behind a bo`le of wine.
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Appendix
“The Drinks Business:
All the medalists from the Low and No Alcohol Wine Masters”
04 JANUARY 2024
By Patrick Schmi.
White Sparkling Brut (12g/l or lower) – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal £10-£15
Veuve du Vernay £15-£20
Oddbird
Oddbird
White Sparkling Sweet (12g/l+) – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal
Under £10
Australian Vintage Divin
Schloss
Wachenheim
Félix Solís AvanQs
Australian Vintage Jacob’s Creek
Edenvale
Nozeco
Australian Vintage
Peter Herres Wein Zerozecco Mosel Germany NV Bronze
Codorníu
Vallformosa Vallformosa Cordier
Pierre Chavin
£10-£15
Juan Ramón Lozano
Pierre Chavin
Cave de
Ribeauvillé
Iris VigneQ Sea Change Free Veneto Italy NV Bronze
White Sparkling Brut (12g/l or lower) – Low Alcohol (>5.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Limestone Coast
White Sparkling Brut (12g/l or lower) – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
El Gaitero Group Jacob’s Creek
White Sparkling Sweet (12g/l+) – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal £10-£15
Australian Vintage
Rosé Sparkling Brut (12g/l or lower) – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Herres £15-£20
Oddbird Sparkling Rosé Languedoc-Roussillon France NV Gold
Oddbird
Rosé Sparkling Sweet (12g/l+) – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Australian Vintage Australian Vintage Peter Herres Wein Codorníu
Vintense
Divin
£10-£15
Domaine la Colombe`e
Sidewood Estate Nearly Naked Sparkling Rosé Adelaide Hills Australia NV Bronze
Anna Spinato Winery
Rosé Sparkling Sweet (12g/l+) – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Jacob’s Creek
Red Sparkling Sweet (12g/l+) – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Edenvale
Unoaked Still White – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Australian Vintage Edenvale
Edenvale
Australian Vintage Divin
Schloss Wachenheim Félix Solís AvanQs
Australian Vintage Not Guilty Pinot Grigio SE Australia Australia NV Silver
Viña Tarapacá Giesen Group
Cordier
Giesen Group
Vintense
Félix Solís AvanQs Australian Vintage
Giesen Group
JJ Leitz
Giesen Group 0% Pinot Gris New Zealand
New
Zealand
NV Bronze
Jacob’s Creek
£10-£15
Daniel Ma`ern
Juan Ramón Lozano
Cave de Ribeauvillé
Wednesday’s
Domaine
Manufaktur Jörg Geiger
Gil Family Estates £15-£20
Domaine de la
Grenaudière Phénomène Loire Valley France NV Bronze
Unoaked Still White – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Branco` Estate
Kingsland Drinks Jacob’s Creek Oxford Landing
Concha y Toro Branco` Estate
Oxford Landing Sunlight Chardonnay South Australia Australia 2023 Silver
Reguta
Australian Vintage Giesen Group
Excelsior
Journey’s End Vineyards
Spier Wine Farm
Spier Wine Farm Cramele Recas
Spier Wine Farm Everlight Chardonnay Western Cape
South
Africa
2023 Bronze
Jacob’s Creek
£10-£15
Giesen Group
Bodegas
Agronavarra
Domaine Bousquet Bon Courage Estate
Oaked Still White – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal
Under £10
Pierre Chavin
Australian
Vintage
Viña San Pedro
Australian
Vintage
£15-£20
Oddbird
Oaked Still White – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal
Under £10
Cordier
Unoaked Still Rosé – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Félix Solís AvanQs
Australian Vintage Cordier
Australian Vintage Jacob’s Creek
Manufaktur Jörg
Geiger
32 Grad Pfalz Germany 2022 Bronze
Giesen Group Giesen Group
Unoaked Still Rosé – Low Alcohol (>5.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal £10-£15
Vondeling Wine
Unoaked Still Rosé – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Cordier Low Ma`er What Occitanie France NV Gold
The Wine Group Mezzacorona
Mezzacorona
Australian Vintage Jacob’s Creek
£10-£15
Bodegas Agronavarra
Unoaked Still Red – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Jacob’s Creek UnVined Shiraz South
Australia
Australia 2022 Gold
Félix Solís AvanQs Cordier
Félix Solís AvanQs Vintense
Juan Ramón Lozano
Giesen Group
£10-£15
Wednesday’s Domaine £15-£20
Vignobles Raguenot –
Château des Tourtes Tip Top Bordeaux France NV Gold
Unoaked Still Red – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Giesen Group Kingsland Drinks Oxford Landing £10-£15
Casa Santos Lima
Oaked Still Red – No Alcohol (<0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Australian Vintage Edenvale
Edenvale
Edenvale
Australian Vintage JJ Leitz
£10-£15
Pierre Chavin Chavin Zéro Syrah
Languedoc
Roussillon
France NV Silver
Comercial DYP
Manufaktur Jörg Geiger
£15-£20
Manufaktur Jörg Geiger
Manufaktur Jörg Geiger
Oddbird
£30-£50
Heribert Bayer
Oaked Still Red – Lower Alcohol (>11%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Andrew Peace Andrew Peace
Australian
Vintage
Australian
Vintage
Andrew Peace Viña San Pedro £10-£15
Australian
Vintage
Tempus Two Lighten Up Shiraz SE Australia Australia NV Silver
Australian Vintage
Australian Vintage
Pre-mixed/RTD – Low Alcohol (>0.5%)
Winery Name of wine Region Country Vint Medal Under £10
Croo
Taylor’s Port
Bodegas Barbadillo